New Hire: The New Three Blue Ducks Chef Brings a Fine-Dining Edge via Quay

Once upon a time, or 15 years ago, Three Blue Ducks was the name of a little Macpherson Street cafe owned and run by a group of mates. Now it’s the banner for a group of farm-to-plate restaurants along Australia’s east coast. The next is coming soon to the Southern Highlands – with a former Quay chef on board.

Troy Crisante (ex-The Ledbury, Firedoor, Bennelong) was the co-head chef of Peter Gilmore’s recently closed fine diner from 2019 to 2025, and joins the Ducks team as group executive chef. “I was really drawn to the Ducks because of the energy and passion around the owners,” Crisante says, referring to Darren Robertson and Andy Allen. His first project is opening Three Blue Ducks Burradoo, set to be the team’s most elevated dining destination.

“The menu will be really fluid and dictated a lot by the farm. We have chickens, beef and lamb all grown on-site, along with an incredible variety of vegetables a stone’s throw from the restaurant. Things taste different when they’re picked hours before they are served – the rocket explodes with flavour, the beetroots are incredibly sweet and the tomatoes retain this incredible umami. We are really excited to work with the farm team to have that magic retained in every ingredient we use.”

We have a chat to the Quay alum ahead of Three Blue Ducks Burradoo opening in April.

Troy, when did you first become interested in cooking?
I have always loved cooking. Certainly my family has had a large part to play in that. My nonno (grandfather) always had chickens and a large veggie garden in southwest Sydney, and some of my earliest memories are going into the chicken coop in the morning and collecting eggs, still warm, and pressing them against our cheeks. I would also absolutely love coming home from school and watching the early-2000s cooking shows like Jamie Oliver and Surfing the Menu, and I would try to cook the recipes for my family.

How did you end up at three-Michelin-starred London dining room The Ledbury?
It was a bit of a mystical place for Australian chefs. I had worked with a few chefs that had eaten or worked there in the early days, and they told stories of this Australian chef in London who was using whole animals, hunting game and really pushing to be one of the world’s best restaurants. I then worked with Nik Hill (Porcine) at Quay around 2012, who’d just got back from a two-year stint there. He became a real mentor for me – I had always wanted to live and work abroad, and having a friend that could help me get a trial was too good to pass up.

I spent almost two years at the restaurant and it was a life-changing time. [Owner Brett Graham] is one of the most inspiring chefs and leaders, and the team working there at the time was just incredible.

You’ve worked with some of Australia’s most influential chefs: Peter Gilmore, Lennox Hastie, Brett Graham. What’s one important thing you learnt from each?
While each of these chefs all have very different styles, their philosophy is basically the same: ingredients matter. I have always been drawn to chefs where the sourcing, respect and the treatment of produce is paramount. I still hear Brett telling the young chefs that the tomato deserves as much respect as the scallop. Or the beef tenderloin!

Peter Gilmore taught me about leadership and how to run a kitchen with respect for your staff and produce, while still pushing yourself and your team to be the absolute best they can be. Also the importance of creating strong and lasting relationships within the industry, be it growers, suppliers or industry friends.

Lennox is a one-in-a-million chef – his passion for the craft is next level. People often misunderstand or underestimate his cooking style. He is obsessed with the fire and the produce and it’s some of the most magical cooking. He taught me that things don’t need to be complicated, and perfection can be achieved with two or three ingredients: fire, and the skill and love of the chef.

What’s one new dish at Burradoo you’re particularly excited about?
The “main course” in the restaurant. We are receiving all our animals from the farm in whole-beast form, which is an incredible opportunity to show the amazing beef or lamb in a variety of ways on the plate – maybe a beautiful roasted lamb cutlet next to a smoked rump and braised neck.

What are your plans for the rest of the Ducks stable?
All the venues have incredible teams already, and some have been operating at an incredible level for more than 10 years. My role is focused on really bringing out the best in those teams, refining the offering and the experience, and continuing to drive the food offering in a way that’s really delicious, ethical and fun.

Three Blue Ducks is expected to open at Burradoo Park Farm, 6 Railway Road, Burradoo, in April 2026. 

@troy.crisante
@threeblueducks