Walking into Marlowe feels like stepping back in time.

It’s inside a heritage-listed 1938 apartment block and because of its heritage status, the space has hardly changed. The venture by the Fanda Group (Southside, Central, Rick Shores and Norté) is warm, inviting and a little eclectic.

Heading the kitchen is co-owner Ollie Hansford (previously of Siffredi’s Spaghetti Bar, Rita’s, St Kilda’s Stokehouse, Stokehouse Q). Hansford’s menu leans into the building’s character, drawing inspiration from nostalgic Aussie favourites like Marie Rose sauce and pavlova.

Snack on cheddar scones with chicken pâté and prawn cocktail tartlets before your starter of smoked cheese soufflé or clam and saffron risotto. Mains make use of a woodfired hearth, turning out dishes like a spiced pork chop with caramelised apple and a coral trout Wellington with chive butter sauce.

Hansford opts for lesser-known producers from Southeast Queensland, using chicken from Joyce’s Gold Heritage Poultry, Wagyu from Elbow Valley Beef and yabbies from Cherax Park Aquaculture Farm.

Group beverage director Peter Marchant compiled an entirely Australian wine list, save for French champagne. Classic producers like Rockford, Henschke and Penfolds feature – with a notable collection of back vintages – alongside smaller winemakers. A strong cocktail list features local spirits and liqueurs.