Saigon is a kaleidoscope of sensation – loud, fragrant, and humming with frenetic energy. It’s where Sydney’s beloved banh mi was born, and where street vendors create dazzling flavours from little more than fresh herbs, crisp vegetables, and a sizzling grill. It’s this food culture that couple Duc Le and Tina Hoang want to impart at Saigon Things, their buzzy eatery in Strathfield.

Of the 1000 or so dishes they hope to showcase over time, the banh canh cua (tapioca noodles served in a crab and pork broth) and com tam (“broken rice” with classic Saigon trimmings) are both essential orders.

Though Duc Le and Tina Hoang want diners to experience the diversity of Vietnamese cuisine, which goes far beyond banh mi and pho, the couple make an exemplary version of the latter, with knuckle, marrow, and brisket bones simmered for 12 to 18 hours – notes from a research trip to Saigon in search of the city’s best.