Veteran chef Geoff Lindsay (who owned the now-closed Dandelion) took over Lamaro’s in 2017, with partner Paul Dimattina. They were attracted by the pub’s classic old bones and strong culinary history.

The duo gave the plush carpeted dining room a touch up, but the pub has otherwise remained a long lunch sort of place that can be popular with an older crowd. The wine list plays to this crowd with bottles from Jim Barry and Vasse Felix, but mixes in up-and-comers which might include South Australia’s BK Wines.

The main menu features pub classics mashed up with some Southeast Asian and French flavours. That might mean schnitzel and red duck curry; twice-cooked octopus with capsicum harissa, pickled radish, capers, potatoes and saffron orange dressing; and classic beef tartare with capers, herbs and grilled radicchio on sourdough. Steaks (and hefty cauliflowers) are fired over red gum in a woodfired oven, lending them more smokiness and char than a typical grill.