“Institution” isn’t a word we use lightly, but that’s exactly what the now-closed Lucio’s was – for Paddington and for Italian food in Sydney.

There are big shoes to fill for whoever takes over the corner spot, with its distinctive yellow paint job inside and out, but chef Dionisio Randazzo and his partner Anya Reddan – who will be the restaurant’s general manager – are up for the challenge.

In May the pair will open Kalsa, a Sicilian restaurant named after a historic quarter in Randazzo’s hometown of Palermo, Sicily, in the old Lucio’s space.

“The main reason we were interested in Lucio’s was the building itself has so much charm and character,” Randazzo tells Broadsheet. “It [would have been] difficult to recreate that charm in a brand new venue. We were instantly in love.”

Though Sicily is in Italy, the island’s cuisine reflects the various cultures that have called it home over the centuries: it’s a melting pot, with Greek, Arab, Spanish, Norman and Mediterranean influences. The Kalsa quarter’s name derives from the historic Arabic name for the district: Al-Khalesa, or “the chosen”.

Sicilian cuisine leans heavily on spices such as cumin and cinnamon, thanks to its proximity to North Africa and, as it’s an island, is abundant in seafood and fish, such as swordfish and tuna. Nuts, citrus fruits, olives and capers also heavily feature in the cuisine.

“Lucio’s is a renowned Italian restaurant and while we are not continuing with the same concept, we also feel we are not completely removed from it either,” Randazzo says. Prior to opening his own place, he was on the pans at Regatta Dining, Altum and Osteria Balla.

At Kalsa he’ll be cooking traditional Sicilian dishes such as couscous di pesce (with fish); caponata (an appetiser of eggplant, olives, onions and herbs); sfincione (spongy focaccia with anchovies); and other, contemporary creations.

The wine list will feature both Italian and Italian-inspired Australian bottles. And while Lucio’s stayed true to old-school dining traditions, service at Kalsa will be more casual and contemporary.

“Our style of service will be in line with the new generation’s style of eating and what we know and love here in Sydney,” says Randazzo.

A few minor tweaks will be made to the space, including the installation of a larger bar, and the incorporation of a wine cellar and private dining room.

Kalsa is due to open in May.