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The corner terrace where Paddington institution Lucio’s served testaroli al pesto pounded and plated tableside for four decades sat empty for nearly a year before Civico 47 opened in its place.

Here, head chef Matteo Zamboni’s menu pulls less from his childhood in Brescia, Italy, than it does from his time cooking at fine diners such as Ormeggio at the Spit, Pilu at Freshwater and Jonah’s.

You might order the classic Italian option of carpaccio served with rocket pesto, crunchy Brussels sprouts, macadamia nuts and vincotto. But pasta and mains incorporate ingredients beyond what you’d traditionally find on an Italian menu: ruffled mafalde noodles are served with bok choy, king prawn and tomato; the rich chuck tail flap comes with shishito peppers, celery and dates.

The wine list is big on Italian drops, with selections from Australia and France.

Although the layout of the corner terrace remains unchanged from Lucio’s days, Civico 47 (which means house number 47 in Italian) looks completely different. The famously yellow exterior has been updated to a bright cream with navy trim.

Civico 47’s dining room is elegant and uncluttered – the artworks by celebrated Australian artists such as Sidney Nolan and Tim Storrier are gone. The floors are stone, banquette seating is a rich tobacco, and the unadorned tables are surrounded by leather and timber chairs. Across from the dining room is a moody bar done in shades of blue.