Charim takes its cues from Korean kisa sikdang – unpretentious, fast-moving restaurants. In Northbridge, that translates to a 12-table dining room with a focused, hansang charim-inspired menu – a traditional set menu that lands on the table in one decisive swoop.

The centrepiece is one of four Korean staples: futari Wagyu bulgogi, osam bulgogi (a sweet-spicy surf’n’turf of squid and pork belly), jeyuk (spicy pork), or bibimbap. Each comes with a bowl of rice, a bowl of yukgaejang (a rich soup of beef and vegetables) and seven banchan (seasonal side dishes), such as rolled omelette with fermented pollock roe and crisp grilled mackerel.

The set meals are generous; highlights include a thick golden-edged pancake with local squid and prawns, and a slow-braised pork jowl accompanied by fresh kimchi, crisp lettuce and ssamjang.