After opening adjoining wine bar 81 Bay, Ian Curley (co-owner of Hardware Lane’s French Saloon and Kirk’s Wine Bar) brings a touch of city polish to Bayside with 40-seat diner Baix. There’s a quiet confidence that puts the focus where it belongs: on the food, the service and the people at the table.

Diners are locked into a three-course menu that evolves every few weeks, but always consists of three seasonal entrees to share followed by a choice of mains and desserts.

Entrees may include caviar-topped blinis with sour cream and chives, and tuna crudo with smoked beetroot. For mains, it could be a Wagyu porterhouse or John Dory with poached cuttlefish and potato mousseline. Dessert may be a Portuguese tart with a smoked maple custard or a chocolate malted parfait with a salted pretzel caramel.