48 Hours in Taipei: Volcanic Hot Springs, Stinky Tofu and World-Beating Cocktail Bars

If Tokyo is currently the most popular East Asian destination for Aussies, Taipei could be one of the most underrated.

Home to a metropolitan population of more than nine million, the Taiwanese capital strikes a fine balance between the historic and the hyper-modern – blending heritage architecture with vibrant public art and world-class public transport. Because the city sits within a volcanic basin, you can pivot from a minimalist espresso bar to a lush hike through sub-tropical jungle in under 20 minutes on the metro.

During the day, Taipei is a masterclass in organised chaos. Swarms of scooters zip through intersections while hawkers roast peanuts in the shadow of sky-high shopping malls. By night, the city remains wide awake, as markets across the city fill with locals, tourists and the pungent aroma of stinky tofu. The bar scene, meanwhile, is lauded as one of Asia’s best, spanning cutting-edge cocktail “stations”, code-required speakeasies and raucous izakayas.

With China Airlines running frequent services from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney, Taipei has never been easier to reach. Focus your stay on  Da’an district, with a day trip to Beitou hot springs for some rest and relaxation. With one of the world's most accessible public transport systems on hand, Taipei’s best is never far away.

Hot tip before you go: download the Linepay app and get around Taipei like a local. Once your card is linked, you can use it to tap your way around the city, including on all public transport and for many card transactions. 

Don’t Skip Breakfast

Breakfast is serious business in Taipei. Kick off the morning at one of the city’s countless dou jiang dian (breakfast cafes), where locals line up for steaming cups of sweet soy milk paired with crispy deep-fried youtiao (dough sticks), soft sesame buns, or savoury dan bing egg crepes. Alternatively, sandwich joints rule in Taipei, serving fluffy white bread sangas with fillings such as charcoal-grilled pork or egg, and sides of crisp radish cake slicked with oyster sauce.

Wander Yongkang Street 

Yongkang Street is one of Taipei’s most walkable (and rewarding) stretches. A bustling thoroughfare flanked by narrow laneways, it’s where you can snack on flaky scallion pancakes and mango shaved ice, sip bubble tea and browse endless artisan boutiques for ceramics and stationery. It’s also home to a couple of famous eateries: hit Yong Kang Beef Noodles for bowls of deeply savoury broth, bouncy noodles and tender beef; or, if you’re game enough to brave the queues, get soupy xiaolongbao from Din Tai Fung’s flagship at the north end. 

Golden Hour at Zhinan Temple

Sure, you could scale the famous “1000” steps path to Zhinan, but the Maokong Gondola will get you to the Taoist complex (and back) in a fraction of the time, with spectacular sunset views of the city skyline – including Taipei’s famous 101 Tower – along the way. Take the metro or grab a rideshare to Taipei Zoo Station for a late afternoon departure. 

Experience the National Palace Museum

Located in the lush Shilin District, the National Palace Museum houses one of the world's most significant collections of Chinese imperial artefacts, including the Three Treasures – the Jadeite Cabbage, Meat-Shaped Stone and Mao Gong Ding. The gift shop sells miniature versions of sculptures and prints that make excellent souvenirs. Don’t leave without a stroll through the classical Zhishan Garden on the museum’s forest-fringed grounds.

Soak at Beitou Hot Springs

After a morning at the museum, jump on the bus, then train and head up to Beitou, a small village-like district famous for its geothermal hot springs. Start at Beitou Thermal Valley’s vivid green pool of sulphuric water and follow the streams through the streets. After exploring, bathe in the mineral-rich water at one of the many bathhouses in the area – just make sure to book in advance if you’re after a private bathing experience. 

Eat Your Way Through Ningxia

No trip to Taiwan is complete without a visit to one of the night markets. Ningxia is the most food-focused and more compact than sprawling Shilin, offering classic Taiwanese snacks like taro balls, fried chicken cutlets and, of course, stinky tofu plus Rong’s pork liver soup. Taipei’s oldest oyster omelette shop, Yuan Huan Pien Oyster Egg Omelette, is here, too. Just be ready to queue. 

Drink at World-Beating Bars 

The World’s 50 Best Bars has a soft spot for Taipei. That’s no surprise given the calibre and diversity here. Head to Draft Land for tapped craft cocktails incorporating house-made kombucha and soda, plus an effortlessly cool space soundtracked by vinyl open until 1am. 

For the loftiest cocktails in the city, To Infinity & Beyond has you covered with ambitious concepts, culinary techniques and theatrical presentations. Bar Mood, by contrast, is sleek and precise, focusing on balanced drinks made with homegrown native ingredients.

The writer travelled as a guest of Taipei Tourism Administration, China Airlines and Brisbane Airport Corporation.